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Quilt As You Go/Machine Binding Technique – Holiday Table Runner


A few months ago, I got an email from Janome asking if I wanted to borrow and review their new Horizon Memory Craft 9400 QCP sewing machine. Ummm, YESSSS!!!! I have been using this machine on several projects and I like what I see. A lot.

There are sooo many fabulous features on this machine that for this post I’m going to narrow it down and show you my favorites, including the Dual Feed Foot AD (the walking foot).


As a professional quilter and former quilt shop owner, I have sewn on several types of sewing machines. I have to say that this is the best walking foot I have ever sewn with. It is easy to attach to the machine and is quiet, steady and smooth.

The other thing that really knocked my sock off is the Retractable Sewing Light. In addition to the twin LED lights, this light extends on the front of the machine and really lights up your sewing area. I found this to be extremely helpful during some late night sewing sessions. It was hard to photograph how much light this baby provided, but trust me, it’s wonderful. And the best part is that it doesn’t get hot and make my sewing area uncomfortable.


From the top… and not even extended all the way. You can also adjust the angle of the light to illuminate exactly where you need it. I think I actually giggled and clapped my hands when I discovered it!


To show off my favorite features, I made a quilt-as-you-go table runner using the walking foot for the entire project, from piecing to quilting to binding.


Here’s what you’ll need:
Dual Feed Foot AD (walking foot)
Fabric (based on size of runner, see below)
Fusible Batting (I used Pellon 987F)
Thread (I used Aurifil 50 wt. in the machine and bobbin)
Fabric Marker (I used a Hera Marker)
Clover Wonder Clips

First, decide what size you want your table runner. I made mine 12″ x 36″ to fit on a small table by my front door. Standard table runner sizes are 10″-15″ wide x 36″-108″ long. Allow for 6″ to hang over on each end of table, or make it shorter for a centerpiece runner. For a 12″ x 36″ runner, I used:

White: [1] 4-1/2″ x 12-1/2″; [2] 2-1/2″ x 12-1/2″
Green with Snowmen: [2] 4-1/2″ x 12-1/2″
Blue with Trees: [2] 4-1/2″ x 12-1/2″
Red with Snowflakes: [2] 6-1/2″ x 12-1/2″
Plus, [3] 2-1/2″ x width of fabric strips for binding


You can make this runner any size. Design your layout using the exact size you want when finished. Then add 1/2″ to each measurement for seam allowance:


Before we start, I want to show you how I adjusted the needle to create a 1/4″ seam using the walking foot. I keep feeling like there may be a setting for this, but I just made the adjustment manually and started sewing. The default for the needle placement is 4.5. I adjusted the needle to a 9.0 and then ran the fabric along the right side of the walking foot.

dsc_5481   dsc_5482


Let’s Sew!

Cut your backing about 4″ longer and wider than your finished top. Fuse batting to the wrong side of backing, following the manufacturer’s instructions. I like to center the batting with the fusible side against the wrong side of fabric, then flip both pieces over and press from the fabric side. (My backing is red, green and white/my ironing board cover is the yellow daisies.)


Once your batting and backing are secure, find the center of the runner and mark with a pin. Find the center of your 1st fabric rectangle (this will be the center of the runner) and align both pieces with batting side up and rectangle fabric side up.


Next, place the second fabric rectangle, right sides together on top of the first rectangle. Align the right side edges (mine happen to be the same size). Using the walking foot, stitch a 1/4″ seam along the right edge. Press toward the second rectangle.



Continue to add remaining strips, in this same manner, on both sides of the center rectangle.



Once you have all of the fabric rectangles sewn to the batting/backing, sew a stay-stitch across both ends to keep the final rectangles from shifting.


For the decorative quilting stitches, select a stitch from the stitch menu. This machine has a tremendous amount of stitches – 350+ stitches & alphabets built in!


You will also need a fabric marker and a scrap of batting with fabric on each side.


I selected Quilting Stitch #22 and Decorative Stitch #48. I tested the size and shape of the stitches on my scrappy quilt sandwich. I liked them both.


Next, I used my hera marker to mark the vertical center on my first fabric rectangle (center of table runner). The hera marker is great because it doesn’t actually mark your fabric, simply creases a line to follow.



I started with Quilting Stitch #22. After stitching the center of the rectangle I followed the width of the foot from each side of the rectangle for stitch lines 2 and 3.


Before changing stitches, I marked and stitched down the center of my narrower, white snowflake rectangles.


I then used a straight stitch on the fabrics with prints, using the edge of the walking foot as a guide and the needle in center position. I also added a straight stitch to the narrow, white snowflake rectangles.



I decided to add Decorative Stitch #48 to the center rectangle.


When quilting is complete, trim the runner so the batting and backing are even with the top. Now it’s time to bind!

I cut [3] 2-1/2″ x width of fabric (selvage to selvage) strips of fabric, stitched them together using a diagonal seam and trimmed the excess fabric 1/4″ from seam.



Next, I pressed the binding wrong sides together lengthwise.

Before starting, adjust the needle position for a 1/4″ seam. Attach the binding starting in the center of one long edge on your runner. When you begin, start sewing with 8″-10″ of binding unsewn. Stop sewing 1/4″ from the corner of the runner.


Fold the binding creating a diagonal crease from the corner.


Next fold the binding back along the runner edge. I like to use a straight pin to get a clean fold on this edge. Once folded, remove the pin and pin along the folded edge of the binding.




Continue to stitch, beginning at the edge of the runner.


Continue to stitch each side, stopping 1/4″ from the corners and folding binding. When you get to the side you started on, stop stitching with at least 12″ of unsewn space between the beginning and end of the binding.


Fold and crease the loose ends of the binding so they meet in the middle of the unsewn space on the runner.


Trim the left side on the crease. Open this end of binding and lay flat.



Here comes the tricky part. Twist the untrimmed side of the binding toward you, turning it over. Open the binding, wrong side up, and lay flat. Use a pen to mark the crease you created when matching up the bindings.



Fold the end of the binding back, aligning the raw edge with the drawn line. Make a crease. Use pen to draw line on crease.


Place this binding strip, right sides together, with the open end of the other binding piece. You may have to scrunch up the runner to get them flat together. Align the long edge with the end of the trimmed binding piece and the drawn line along the bottom edge of the trimmed binding piece. Be sure not to “untwist” the marked piece and pin both binding strips together.


Next, sew on the diagonal drawn line. Scrunch the runner and keep it out of the way while sewing binding strips together.


Untwist the binding to make sure it lays flat. Trim 1/4″ from seam and press seam open. Finish sewing joined binding to runner.


Turn the folded edge of the binding to the back. Use Clover Wonder Clips to hold securely. Clip one long side. You can use pins for this, but I find they don’t hold as flat and even as the Wonder Clips.


On the front of the runner, stitch in the ditch between the binding and the quilted fabric. Remove clips as you go. I like to start in the center and work toward the corner. I turn the quilt and make 1 or 2 stitches into the corner to secure, then proceed down the next side.


Check to confirm that you are stitching the back of the binding down. This is a quick binding technique and although the stitches show on the back, it looks hand-stitched from the front.



We’re done! This was a fast and easy project and I can’t wait to try more decorative stitches on this machine!



I made a table runner with this method for my daughter to use on her TV stand.


Thank you to Janome for letting me use their fabulous machine! Look for another post soon showing more ways to use decorative stitches to spice up your quilting!

Have a great day,

Click this link for a PDF of these instructions: quilt-as-you-go-table-runner-with-machine-binding

Disclaimer: I was provided this sewing machine from Janome for my review. These opinions are my own and the walking foot provided the inspiration for this tutorial. If you’re in the market for a new sewing machine, I encourage you to check out the Horizon Memory Craft 9400 QCP.






16 thoughts on “Quilt As You Go/Machine Binding Technique – Holiday Table Runner

  1. thanks for the tutorial. im going to try your binding technique!

    1. Great! Let me know if you have any questions.

  2. Wonderful tutorial. Have you made a video for those of us who are visual learnings

    1. No, I haven’t, but that’s a great idea. Thanks!

  3. New technique for me

  4. I would like the patternin PDF form

  5. Is there a PF file to download. Thanks

  6. I’ve been taught to sew binding back to front. Does it matter or just a personal preference? Love the runner and binding fabric.

    1. It is personal preference, depending on where you want the stitching to show.

  7. Wow!! This is the best explanation of the binding technique I’ve seen. Finally makes sense and I may not struggle again thanks to you.

  8. I’m not surprised. I have a Janome Horizon 8200 and I love it to pieces! I was just thinking this evening as I was finishing up at the machine before bedtime that I love my Janome so much, I think they should give me a job!

    1. Kaholly – They should give me one, too. We could be a team! 🙂

  9. Love your instructions!

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